Snakes & tigers alive! - Ulu Muda Forest Reserve

Snakes and tigers alive!

Hello folkssss:A glisteninggreen snakespotted bytrekkers.

The Ulu Muda Forest Reserve in Kedah is a treasure trove of natural wonders and wildlife.

OUR women don’t go rowing boats into the jungle or paddle down rapids,” grinned the guide, as I balanced myself on the little wooden boat and jumped into the river to push the boat.

Well, I had to help the guide push the flimsy boat laden with rucksacks, equipment, tents and food.

What made me want to spend four days in the jungle and brave bloodthirsty leeches, mosquitoes, wild boar ticks and risk my limbs being punctured by sharp thorns?

Well, imagine sitting in a boat at night, listening to the music of crickets and cicadas, gazing into the night sky dotted with stars and enjoying the light show by the fireflies in the trees.

No! This did not happen on a river cruise on the outskirts of a town, but in the middle of a jungle in the wilderness of the Ulu Muda forests in Kedah. The forests in the very north of West Malaysia continues into southern Thailand.

The Penang Nature Society members I was with drove up to Baling, heading towards Lake Muda.

The Ulu Muda Forest Reserve was gazetted as a permanent Forest Reserve in 1932 to protect the Muda river water catchment area which covers some 980sqkm and forms part of the Muda Irrigation Project.

This project is designed to channel water to the padi fields that spread across almost 100,000ha of the fertile Kedah and Perlis coastal plains. Sadly, logging in Baling has destroyed much of the flora and fauna in this forest. Two years ago, the water level was higher and the little boats could move easily in Muda River. As a result of logging, a huge amount of sand has been deposited into the river.

From the jetty, we took a seven-hour boat ride to our campsite where the water was clearer. All the way there , we were greeted by eagles, egrets and bee-eaters which soared in the hot sky.

Watch out! A crocodile swimming in the lake? Luckily it was just a huge monitor lizard cooling itself in the muddy water of the lake. And look, a wild boar drinking water at the sandbank.

Almost everywhere on the river bank, we saw elephant tracks. The sides of the bank were eroded, revealing patches of red earth trampled by wild animals.

There was a bustle of activity on the river bank: an egret flying down to catch a big, reddish dragonfly; crabs crawling hurriedly in the mud; geckos darting around the hot sand; hundreds of butterflies in myriad hues flapping their wings while sucking in water from the sand.

“Stop!” grunted the boat man as he jumped into the shallow water to push his boat which had become stuck.

We got down to help him push the boat. I was fortunate to have two able-bodied men in my boat and thus did not have to help push the boat that much. At times, her gender gives a woman an advantage, for men do readily offer help in precarious situations!

After seven hours under the fiery sun, we reached our destination and set up our tents. I jumped into the cool water but the strong current pushed me over the rocks.

Ouch! My knees were knocked blue-black! The river is definitely not a place for the beauty-conscious and fair lady type. I thanked my lucky stars when the men offered gallantly to cook for me.

After a hearty meal of steamed rice and canned fish, I was looking forward to a slumber when a loud shriek rang in the air. A snake! It had slithered under Alastair’s ground sheet. Look out! There was another one following behind.

That was it! The ladies ran all around the tents in panic, and I found I had goose-pimples.

“Can we camp somewhere else?” I shivered.

“In pitch darkness? No way” replied Alastair.

He trailed the snake and found a nest in a hole. Somehow he caught it and relocated it across the river the next morning. We identified it as a krait – a lovely black snake with white bands across its slim body. The book we brought along described it as a fast snake which can be very aggressive if threatened.

Gibbons and growls

The next day, we were greeted by the calls of the gibbons and saw a serpent eagle seizing a snake in its beak. More excitement was in store as we trekked to discover more natural wonders.

In fact, the sides of the river were akin to mini-cities of bustling life. Huge ants scurried around with scraps in their jaws, and big dragonflies were everywhere. The growing interest in dragonflies is not purely about aesthetics but because of their applications – one of which is as “bio-control” agents.

As dragonfly larvae feed on mosquito larvae, they help keep the pesky insect at bay.

Insect life appeared to be quite abundant as our body sweat attracted many insects. Countless multicoloured butterflies settled on our wet shirts as we attempted to take photographs of these beauties. We took footprints of elephants, tapirs, otters and boars in plaster of Paris as souvenirs. The tapir had four toes in front and three toes behind.

Then, suddenly, the group in front stopped in their tracks. “Sshh!”

A loud growl was heard and my hair stood on end. It was a tiger in the bushes meters away in the forest as we stood quietly together. The loud roar of the boat’s engine rang as it headed for our direction and that must have scared the animal away.

My worries dissolved at the thought of seeing more wild animals. Money could not buy such rare sights in the city, and life can be lived to the fullest by being adventurous. No wonder our guides carried a long parang for defence and to cut the thorny plants that blocked our way.

Often we followed the elephants’ trails which were clearly a soggy path to a salt lick or river. We climbed up a hide, several meters high over a salt lick to watch otters. Scattered areas of intrusive granite rocks are the source of several hot mineral springs and a salt lick, including Sira Hangat.

We smelled the hot sulphur as we sat by the mineral spring. We popped eggs into the hot spring and had a feast later. When we were hot, we peeled off our shirts and jumped into the cool and refreshing water amidst the chirping of birds.

Ah! What more could one ask for! By now, my feet and shoes weighed a few kilograms for I had been treading through water for hours. I marvelled at the tough guide who walked barefoot for hours on the river bed stones. Despite the heavy rain, we plodded on, having no choice. The kampung Adidas rubber shoes were suitable for river walking but I had only my heavy, hill-climbing shoes.

Oh, look to the right! I whispered to the others. A group of wild boar were near the salt lick. What a fascinating sight! Look up! There were great hornbills in the air. We watched the local men climb tualang trees to the honey combs.

These memorable sights will remain in our hearts, always. For more information on camping in Ulu Muda, contact the writer at tpeggypeach@yahoo.com.

Location: About 420km north of Kuala Lumpur. Leave the North-South Expressway at the Gurun exit and travel about 100km north-east to Gubir, the entry point to Muda Lake.

Attractions: Remote unspoiled tropical rainforest wilderness, abundant fishing, rainforest treks, opportunity to sight large mammals, true untamed jungle experience.

Facilities and accommodation: Camping in reserve area and hostel. Nearby Pudu Lake Resort provides good chalet accommodation and associate d facilities. Food, drinks and petrol available at Gubir. Longboats and local guides for hire.

Activities: Fishing, trekking, swimming, camping, night walks, bird and butterfly watching.

~News courtesy of The Star~